We had been on the Berg Lake trail in Mount Robson BC Provincial Park before in 2013 and remembered it as a series of beautiful places, any one of which could be a great trail on its own. When Tania suggested back in January that we make reservations to go back, I was eager.
The kids now consistently carry all their personal clothes and gear on all our hiking trips, and each year they get stronger and more able to hike long distances. Our longest day with packs on was to be 12km on our second day which seemed difficult but achievable .
Before we left home, I weighed the packs and the 3 that weren’t mine weighed around 25% of their owners’ body weights. My pack was 40% of my weight and then I added 2 litres of water, 1.5 litres of fuel and a 6 pack of beer. my best guess is that I was carrying 88 pounds when we left the parking lot.
Our first day hiking was the easier of the hike in days. A hike through rain forest brought us to Kinney Lake. We only stopped once, just after the 2km mark for me to run back to the car and get my camera. Kinney Lake is absolutely beautiful with its green colour and backdrop of mountains. We had considered leaving a food drop there for the trip out, but the single bear locker did not leave enough room for our extra food and all of the overnight campers in this busy campground.
We continued our journey toward Whitehorn, our destination for the first night. Though I was struggling with the oppressive weight on my back, the valley leading up to Whitehorn campground is a stunning sight and helped take my mind off the pressure on my back.
As is her habit, Fiona made friends with everyone on the trail. People often call her a “good little hiker”, but really she is a good hiker by any standards. She had her usual trail conniption, but she was just as perky at the end of the day as at the beginning. As soon as we got to Whitehorn campground, she changed into her swim suit and went to play in the glacial river.
The weather was a little cool at only around 15ºC and it had rained in several previous days, so I was not completely surprised that someone had lit an emergency fire in the stove at the Whitehorn picnic shelter. I didn’t see anyone obviously hypothermic, but there were a few pieces of gear drying on lines near the stove. Now, before going on the Berg Lake trail, folks are asked to watch a video showing the trail rules. These rules are generally obvious, such as no stereos, share the shelters and store food in the bear lockers, as well there are some other rules like no fires except in emergencies. As I was cooking dinner, there was less and less gear hanging to dry by the stove, and it became clear that the family that were stocking the fire were the ones occupying 2 tables in the busy shelter, listening to their stereo (and sometimes singing) and not drying any gear (their gear was easy to spot, all 7 of them wore various camouflage patterns from shoes to hats). In to morning, they were chopping wood at 5AM and had the stove stoked up by the time I got there to make coffee at 5:30. They were complaining about the rodents that had eaten all the food in their daughters’ packs (shouldn’t that have been in a bear locker?). By the time we left the campground at 10AM, they had their gear spread on all 4 of the tables while people were cooking on the ground outside. Fortunately they were on their way out since nothing spoils a trip like having to camp with assholes.
Our second day included the 4km long 600m climb that constitutes the hard part of the trail. While stunningly beautiful, the beauty is somewhat diminished when carrying 80 pounds on your back. Just putting my pack on enraged the raw sores I had developed the day before, but I staggered up the hill, pausing frequently to rest my legs.
When we reached Emperor Falls campground, I needed a rest. We still had 7km to hike but hardly any more elevation gain. With a short rest break at the Marmot campground, I plodded the rest of the way to our campsite at Rearguard. Rearguard is the smallest of the Berg Lake trail campsites with only 5 tent pads, but it has a great view of Rearguard mountain, as well as some view of Berg Lake and of the Robson Glacier. It was to be our home for 3 nights.
One of the best parts of the Berg Lake trail is that there are many day hikes from the Berg Lake campgrounds that offer even more to see in addition to the waterfalls, Berg Lake and the majestic Mount Robson. We headed out on our third day to hike Toboggan Falls. We had been up these previously, but the trail is rewarding and the falls are unique in their unusual erosion patterns. It was raining intermittently, but never too much, and we seemed to never need our raincoats for more than 5 minutes or so at a time.
By the time we got to the cave at the top, it was clear that we wanted to do more, so we decided to add on the Mumm Basin trail to make it a loop. We were very glad about it when for the first half km of the trail Fiona was completely enchanted by the shale slope landscape. She skipped from rock to rock saying, “Look at this! Look at this!” We couldn’t help but to enjoy the hike. As we rounded the Mumm basin and began to descend, we spotted a marker off the trail that turned out to be a Alberta / BC border marker. The kids were both excited to play the hopping across the provincial border game.
The following day we planned to take on snowbird pass – the most strenuous of the day hikes from Berg Lake. It was definitely a highlight of the trip, though Tania did not like the steepness of the trail as it wound up the glacier debris. The view of the Robson glacier was phenomenal.
In a fortunate twist of booking, we ended up making our way out with a night at Emperor Falls and two nights at Kinney Lake. The full day of recovery at Kinney Lake was non-stop fun for the kids and left me well rested for the 7 hour drive home.
It isn’t every day that you line up three consecutive days for bikepacking with your son, so when it happens – you take it, even if the weather calls for a very wet and cold start to the trip.
We have done the Elbow loop as a day trip, hiking trip and bikepacking trip a number of times now. It was time to move on to something a little more challenging. I cobbled together a potential route that had a large number of alternates in case of troubles. I thought it was going to be a stretch, but might be possible.
Thursday evening we set out from the parking lot in moderate rain. Tadhg wasn’t feeling his best and felt sluggish on the climbs, but was happy enough. The rain wasn’t excessive, but there was a consistent drizzle. We had planned to make Tombstone pass by sundown but ended up only halfway, near where the Romulus campground used to be before the ’13 floods.
As we set up the tent, the rain got serious. Then it got worse.
By morning, the rain had tapered down to a steady shower. Neither of us were in a big hurry to get out into it, so we stretched breakfast and coffee till nearly 11 and hit the trail around 11:30. The plan was to get 45km further down a couple of trails before settling down for the night.
I often say that single digit temperatures and rain are much colder than temperatures below freezing and this was no exception. We struggled with rain-softened trail and low energy. Tadhg wasn’t hungry, which is usually a sure sign of trouble.
By 5pm, we had made it less than 20km and had crossed only the smallest passes – hardly worthy of their name. We came to a river crossing and decided to look for a place to camp – conveniently, there was an old horse camp exactly where we were.
The rain let up as we were setting up camp and things started to look up. I revised our route plan to remove the second half so as to avoid getting too far away from the car to be able to get back on Sunday. We left the camp better than when we started by burning the garbage that had been left in the fire pit and surrounding area.
Saturday morning started sunny and warm with about half a dozen river or creek crossings and then a major washout. I scouted the trail and there was a clear way through, it was just going to take time. If we had been able to estimate how much time, we would have continued. I just didn’t think it was prudent to move away from the car down an unknown trail to possibly put us out of reach of our sunday evening deadline. We thought about it for a while and even though we were both in a better mood and Tadhg had energy, we decided to turn back the way we had come and ride out the remainder of the Elbow loop as a very easy 2 days.
Though we were taking it easy, it was early when we got back to Tombstone campground. We filtered water and ate a bunch of candy. Then we met up with a couple of fatbikers out on a day trip. We set out down the Big Elbow side of the trail knowing that the washouts would slow us down by quite a bit, and thinking we would ride for a couple of hours and then camp for the night. The washouts weren’t as bad as we expected, and Tadhg was riding really well – easily clearing the many rock gardens and rough trail patches. We took lots of breaks and stopped frequently to chat with the fatbikers, but we were running out of trail.
As we started to set up camp, Tadhg pointed out the futility of camping less than an hour from our car and so we re-packed and hit the trail. We rode full out on the last section, passing some unladen bikers on full suspension rigs (much to their dismay). We were home shortly.
Overall it was a very successful bikepack even though we got less than a third of the planned route completed. This was the first time I had my Krampus with the suspension fork out for bikepacking and it was close to ideal. The miserable weather at the beginning let me us have a taste for hardship, and was a great gear test. By not forcing Tadhg to continue we managed to keep the ride fun and improve the chances of his coming back for another attempt.
Update April 29, 2015:
I spoke to the district manager just now, and the summary is that they will put up a sign saying no unaccompanied children under 12. The safety scenario he suggested was that if the mall was evacuated and my child couldn’t contact me it would be dangerous. I explained the difference between inconvenient and dangerous. Also the store manager denies saying anything outside of “for child safety reasons, this is our policy” – I can’t say that I blame him, to admit to having said that to me would show integrity, but be career limiting for him.
Comment moderation was becoming overwhelming, I have closed the comments. Thank you for all the kind words and for the alternate perspectives.
End of Update.
The following is a letter to Lego regarding an incident which happened at the Chinook Centre Lego store on Sunday. My son, who rides his bike to school alone, goes regularly to stores to buy groceries, earns money for babysitting and yard work, and is passionate about Lego, is apparently not old enough to be at the Lego Store alone. This policy is not posted, and they had to sneakily ask him his age to even know how old he was. He has been going to the Lego store alone to spend his money since he was 9.
April 26, 2015
Today, our son went to the Lego store in Chinook Mall, Calgary, Alberta. He had over $200 and was intending to purchase some lego with it. He is a frequent customer at the Lego Store and likes to browse the merchandise and evaluate his next purchase. He is a skilled lego builder and has built many of his own models as well as assembling kits which he has purchased from the Lego Store. He uses his own money which he has earned from such things as babysitting and shoveling walks.
Imagine my surprise when I entered the Lego Store and found that the manager of the Lego Store had called a security guard to detain my son and confront me to try to coerce me into staying with my son while he was in the Lego store.
It is important to note that my son has been to the Lego Store on his own several dozen times and has made thousands of dollars worth of purchases. He is dedicated to Lego and has a very extensive collection. He has never been hassled, and no Lego Store employee has ever questioned his behavior in the store. He does not disrupt business and he is a paying customer.
I spoke to the security guard who told me that the Lego store required a parent to be with any child 12 or under who was in the store. I then asked what my son had done wrong. The security guard stated that it was Lego Store policy and that he was just enforcing it.
I then followed the guard to the manager, Sydney Lowe, and asked the manager why he would call security on my son. He stated that for safety reasons, no child under 12 could be left unattended in the store. I explained that I had not left him unattended, but that he had arrived at the store on his own, as a customer. I happened to be meeting him there afterward, but only because we wanted to meet for lunch. The store manager then said, “For child safety reasons, we don’t allow children under 12 to be unattended in the store.” I asked what safety scenario made the Lego Store so unsafe that an 11.5 year old needed a chaperone. He then replied “If I have to explain THAT to you, then you shouldn’t be a parent.” I explained that my son had been a Lego Store customer for years and that he had spent thousands of dollars of his own on Lego. I explained that it was bad for business to require my son to have a parent with him in the store. I explained that my son regularly went to stores, including the Lego store and that there was no reason why the Lego store should be an exception to general society. The security guard then piped in and started making a claim that child abductions from the mall were a frequent event – which is a lie. I cut him off and asked “how many child abductions have taken place here in the mall?” The security guard then said to me, “if you don’t see how leaving your child alone in a store is dangerous, then you are a bad parent.” I questioned why this alleged policy was not posted on the front of the store and the manger responded once again with, “it should be obvious to any good parent that children under 12 shouldn’t be in a store unattended. We have the policy for child safety reasons. Your son is welcome in the store, but we ask that you accompany him whenever he is here.”
We left the store and have no plans to return.
When I recounted the story to my wife, she went to the Lego Store to get the manager’s card. He treated her with contempt and made it clear that he did not care if we shopped in the Lego Store ever again.
We asked our son how they had even found out his age, and he replied that he had been discussing Lego with one of the store employees (he was not sure which one, but not the manager) when the employee asked, “Just out of curiosity, how old are you?” Our son naturally assumed that he simply wanted to know the age of the Lego Prodigy that he was talking to and provided his age.
Lego is a big part of our son’s life, and by extension a big part of our life. It would be very sad for us to have to end our customer relationship with Lego on a permanent basis. As such, I am asking for the following restitution:
1. Sydney Lowe will deliver to me a personal, believable and full apology for questioning my right to be a parent. I am raising my children to be strong, independent and good citizens. He has no right to disparage me as a parent in light of the fact that my son was by his own admission doing nothing wrong.
2. Sydney Lowe will also deliver an apology to my son. My son is a dedicated Lego customer and does not deserve to be treated as anything but a responsible young Lego enthusiast, and certainly not a criminal, which, by calling a security guard and detaining him, certainly implies.
3. The Security Guard at Chinook Centre will be found and will also deliver an apology to me for questioning my parenting, lying and detaining my child for no reason.
4. If this policy is actual policy, then it will be posted on the door of the Lego store in Chinook Centre so that responsible children can see the contempt in which the Lego Store holds them. (especially the manager)
Please understand that I am not asking that the Lego Store run a babysitting service for anyone who comes to the mall. I am merely asking that paying customers of any age be treated with the respect that they deserve.
cc; Sydney Lowe
“More food please.” We had been in the car for an hour and a half. He had eaten 2 pears, 2 oranges, an apple, a sandwich and a granola bar. We were popping in to get our camp permit anyway so I picked up a pair of masala dosas to go and we headed out of the Banff townsite with Tadhg stuffing his face.
After packing the bikes, we were on the trail by 3:30, our plan was to bike 11km along the Lake Minnewanka trail to the very originally named LM11 back country campsite (actually, it has a name, it is numbered to avoid confusion). The trail starts out with a bit of climbing, but most of it is rideable by Tadhg since he has been riding to school this year and is super fit.
The trail is not so snow covered that we need the fatbikes we are riding, but they aren’t totally overkill either. Tadhg has grown over the last couple of years so he now carries his own clothes and sleeping pad, as well as the 3 liters of gatorade that he loves so much.
Several snack stops down the trail, we come to the LM8 campsite. Though it is now twilight, we decide to press on, but not for long, as dark comes early this time of year. By LM9, it is full dark and we decide to camp. Unfortunately, we have neglected to bring a book, since dinner and food hanging is done by 6. After a bit of walking around, we decide to turn in around 7.
With the temperature forecast to only go as low as -9°C, I have no concern about the cold. I didn’t even bother to zip my sleeping bag, since using it spread like a quilt lets me move much more freely. Several times during the night I am awakened by the pitter patter of unwelcome little rodent feet as mice or voles seem pretty convinced that they will find food in our tent. Where are the owls and martens that we love so much?
Even our properly hung food bag does not escape attention as one of our granola bars is 90% eaten and another few have been opened and sampled by some sort of critter capable of robbing food from a bag suspended by a metal cable.
Since we now have the whole day to ride, we decide to head further away from the car. After 5 km and several snacks, we turn back. Tadhg’s riding continues to impress me, there are some rock gardens and technical sections that he would have been walking just this summer, but they are trivial to him now.
As we got to the LM8 campground, we realized that one od Tadhg’s mittens was missing from his bike. Though we rode back to look for it, we did not find it, but we did get some more riding done on this wonderful trail. We also ate more snacks.
Even with the one mitten lost, we did have a great overnight ride and both Tadhg and I called the trip a success.
The final stats ended up: day 1 – 9.5 km, day 2 – 27 km. The only climbing that seemed significant was the 100m gain at the car end of the trail.
Fiona is 6, she is a proven outdoors-capable girl. I have been promising to take her camping for several months, and this weekend we got the chance to go.
We decided Banff national park needed some visiting and so with some advice from my friend Scott, who used to live in Banff, we set off to camp at the far end of the Spray Loop starting near the Banff Springs Hotel. On the way up, I asked Fiona if we should snowshoe, hike or ski the loop and she insisted skiing was our mode of transport for this trip.
The temperature was a balmy -15C when we started and warmed up into the -10 range as we skied, and it made for a great afternoon. Fiona kept talking about how nice the trail was.
We set up camp and ate our dinner before it got completely dark, and we had time to read several chapters from the book I am reading to her before 7. It was cold enough to make holding a book and turning pages difficult, so we turned in relatively early.
I woke up several times during the night and checked on the happily snoring Fiona to make sure she was not suffering. Each time, I checked the thermometer on my pack and it got as cold as -30C – a potentially catastrophic temperature if we hadn’t been prepared. We did not need to resort to any of our emergency clothing or run off to start a fire (the fire pit is about 200m from the campsite).
The real test of our mettle was Fiona’s 7:30 call of, “I need to pee.” It was -30C and still pretty dark, but if you need to pee…
If you haven’t ever had to get out of a warm sleeping bag at -30C to help a little girl pee, I cannot say I recommend it. It did get my butt out of bed, and once I was up, it wasn’t that much of a stretch to get making breakfast.
After a tasty breakfast and taking down of the tent, we had our next serious challenge in which we donned our very seriously cold ski boots and had to ski as fast as we could for the first few minutes so as to not inflict frostbite on ourselves.
The day warmed as we skied the second half of the loop, and we had another great day of skiing and drinking of gatorade slush as we made our way back to the car.